Two sides to every story at Moe's Cantina, in food, atmosphere, noise

Moescantina.com

Hours: Open at 11 a.m. daily for lunch and dinner.

Prices: Skewers, $9-$10; traditional plates, $11-$16; small plates (hot and cold), $4-$12.

Try: Skewers (shrimp, wild boar), Mexican sliders, guacamole, chips and salsas

Wheels: Wheelchair accessible on the first floor.

In bite: Moe’s Cantina is OK if you are looking for a bar in which to get a bite. Or a bar where you can watch TV (a dozen or so all over the place). The food is quasi- (but not crazy) Mexican in scope with just about every dish you would expect to find in a Mexican restaurant. The cavernous space, including a balcony on high, with its hard-surfaces decor (wood and more wood) makes for a robust level of noise on a busy night (lunch is a lot more pleasant). Pricey, specialty cocktails abound . Sangria, a full house of tequila brands and a few wines. Not good for children. Reservations accepted.

KEY: ★★★★ Extraordinary;

Moe’s Cantina in River North has a split personality. If you like sports of any kind, a four-deep bar scene, earlobe-rattling noise, very spotty service and you are thirtysomething, Moe’s at night is your kind of place. If you like quiet (relatively speaking), somewhat better service and an empty bar (more or less), then Moe’s for lunch or early dinner will work for you. Either way, you will not be TV-deprived. There are a dozen or more flat-screen TVs all over the place. Moe’s is either a sports bar that thinks it’s a restaurant or a restaurant that got a deal on a bulk purchase of TVs.

Moe’s rattles the rafters, and there are a lot of them about 30 feet or more up there in its cavernous space that once housed an interesting antique store. A friend of mine insists a bar is the heart of a restaurant. I don’t agree. This cantina is all about a scene that wobbles back and forth between bread and booze. That is an observation, not a criticism. In fact, its Mexican food shows promise.

Let’s start with the “cold small plates” section of the menu, where a trio of salsas arrived in the company of a basket of chips. Good chips, so-so salsas. I fixated on the mango salsa (mostly because I love mangoes), which had the right blend of lime, cilantro and red onion. The pico de gallo was too tame, but the tomatillo salsa had enough jalapeno to fire up my interest.

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Two sides to every story at Moe's Cantina, in food, atmosphere, noise

If you like quiet (relatively speaking), somewhat better service and an empty bar (more or less), then Moe's for lunch or early dinner will work for you. Either way, you will not be TV-deprived. There are a dozen or more flat-screen TVs all over the



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